Results with Dil. J are very good, to excellent, with very good sharpness and a fine grain throughout.
As I'm trying a different Dilution, which I am designating as "DILUTION M" which is 1mL of HC-110 Syrup, plus 250mL of water.
I started out with setting up a simple still-life series of photos using my Honeywell Spotmatic SPII, SunPAK Auto622 Pro Handlemount Flash and AC Slave Strobe w/Translucent White Umbrella.
I adjusted the lighting from shot to shot, but also kept the handlemount flash to a minimum of ƒ/2.8 in AUTO mode.
As I wanted the most amount of shadow with soft highlights, I made sure that the AC Slave was going to do most of the flash work, and the SunPAK flash was specifically used only for a trigger.
After taking about 12 frames using my HELIOS 44-2 58mm ƒ/2 lens, I decided to switch to my Carl Zeiss Jena T* 50mm ƒ/2.8 lens instead. Both are excellent lenses, but the CZJT lens did give a much higher level of sharpness, which I expected.
After about 24 or 25 frames of film I unloaded the film in my darkroom, resetting the remainder of film in the camera to be ready to continue at a later time. Film was then loaded into my JOBO single 35mm tank, and prepared for developing.
I was able to get about 24°C water from my tap, even after letting the cold water run a good 10 minutes prior, which I wasn't too worried about, considering it was going to be a stand develop instead of a regular develop method.
Mixing the solution of 1mL of HC-110 Syrup (The thick yellow syrup and not the already diluted solution) to 250mL of water (I used 2mL of HC-110 and 500mL of water) the temperature seemed to be steady around 25°C.
I set my "flash" timer to 30:00 (it's a countdown timer that uses ADOBE FLASH) and poured in my developer. Starting the timer I inverted continuously for the first 30s, giving the tank a few good taps afterward to dislodge any bubbles and let it sit for 29:30.
The Timer rang, as expected, at 30:00 and so I reset it, and began to invert again continuously for 00:30 again, and let it sit for an additional 29:30, giving the tank a good tap or two to again dislodge any bubbles.
I repeated again at 60:00, and prepared the "wash" for 90:00.
Prior to stop/fixing I popped into my bathroom (lights out) and dumped the developer and clipped off about ½ an inch of film (which is roughly half a frame) to inspect if the film is actually developing. Sure enough, it developed perfectly, and I began to wash the film in the tank for 1:00 under running water.
Pouring in the fixer, I let it sit and fix for 10 minutes, and began my cleanup.
Fixed, and washed again for 20 minutes, then letting it sit in photo-flo and distilled water, I let it hang to dry over-night.
|Cradled Plums - Honeywell Spotmatic SPII - Helios 44-2 Lens - Polypan F 50 - HC-110 Dil. M|
|Still Life Plum - Honeywell Spotmatic SPII - Helios 44-2 Lens - Polypan F 50 - HC-110 Dil. M|
|Plums And Bananas - Honeywell Spotmatic SPII - Carl Zeiss Jena T* Lens - Polypan F 50 - HC-110 Dil. M|